Read about our approach to external linking. Each collection focuses on the work of a charity, which receives 20 percent of the profits from the sale of the clothes. Though the industry-wide drive to mobilize voters did not explicitly take sides, it was widely seen as supporting Joe Biden’s presidential campaign. December 18, 2020 “Different ethnicities being accepted within, and allowed the opportunity to shine within fashion or within creative industries, is my story to a T,” he said. It’s incredibly important that this thought trickles down through all levels of the market.” And, if spending more on a single item when incomes are low seems counter-intuitive, think again: “Less disposable income means less money to throw away on clothing each season. Without the distractions that come with everyday life and routine, it was impossible to look away from the crises being experienced all over the world. I feel like people are ready to perceive this, whereas before I didn’t think that was the case,” she said. After centuries in which everyone pretty much dressed the same, young people finally got wardrobes of their own – and mined all the revolutionary potential of Eastern influences, of prints and patterns and of army-and-navy surplus clothing stores. “Fashion brands have a responsibility to reflect the times,” said Simmenauer. No matter how big or small a brand, there are levers you can pull to ensure you are contributing to the larger conversation,” Gurung noted. © Copyright 2020  -  Penske Media Corporation, clock When Chiuri joined Dior in 2016, she was the first woman to take the design reins in the history of the French fashion house. As we look forward to 2021 with a new hope, we also look back with all humility at the things 2020 taught us in the terms of life, sustainability and subtle fashion. “Fashion as activism was stronger than ever in 2020,” fashion search engine Lyst said in its “Year in Fashion 2020” report. By subscribing, you agree to our When the world moved out of World War Two in the 1950s, a new silhouette emerged, as embodied by Christian Dior’s New Look: “Fitted jackets, padded hips, wasp-like waist and A-line skirts,” says Stevenson. “Living conditions in cities are expected to get harder,” says futurist Geraldine Wharry. The moment illustrated the extent to which fashion and activism have become entwined in a year marked by widespread upheaval, from the global lockdowns designed to curb the spread of COVID-19, to the Black Lives Matter protests and a divisive U.S. presidential election. Courtesy Photo. A protester at the Dior spring 2021 show. Every definition relates to the big picture: that fashion needs to … The finale of his fall 2017 show featured models in T-shirts with slogans such as “The Future Is Female” and “Break Down Walls,” while his 10th anniversary show explored American identity, with models wearing beauty pageant sashes that said: “Who Gets to Be American?”. “They don’t know about my hiring practices, how I’ve launched the career of many Black designers, and I don’t think that it’s their job. Abloh subsequently clarified that he had in fact donated $20,500 to bail funds and other causes related to the protest movement, which started after the police killing of George Floyd in May. Countless other brands have risen to the challenge, whether by producing emergency supplies of face masks and hand sanitizer; donating funds to the BLM movement, supporting Black-owned businesses and providing scholarships, mentorship and opportunities to Black students, or producing vote-themed merchandise to mobilize people in the U.S. election. “Fashion in 2030?” she says. And yet, there are still few better places to examine cultural change than fashion. This year, Williams launched the Emergency Designer Network with fellow designers Holly Fulton, Cozette McCreary and Phoebe English, in response to a shortage of personal protective equipment in U.K. hospitals. And if it does survive, what form will it take? That's … “I don’t think I would be able to sleep at night if I felt like I was not saying what I want to say.”. The same can be said of Virgil Abloh, who in 2018 was named men’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton, becoming one of the highest-profile Black designers in the industry. From editor-curated shopping guides to expert tips on how to make the most of your wardrobe, get ready for the inside scoop on how to live your most … Michael Buckner/WWD, “Brands that weren’t doing this kind of thing before did not suddenly switch strategy in 2020,” said Simmenauer. ... December 16, 2020. Here are the 10 fashion-related things that happened in 2020. The e-commerce company … The key word for Vogue’s January 2020 issue is values. “It’s responsible design.” He’d be delighted with youngsters Kevin Germanier and Maddie Williams, and of initiatives such as the Redress Design Award, all developing new business models that repurpose and reuse old clothing. Christian Siriano, who has been outspoken on issues ranging from LGBTQ rights to body positivity, was among the designers encouraging people to vote in the U.S. election, showing a floor-length gown printed with a graphic “vote” pattern — with a matching face mask — as part of his spring 2021 collection. Stylist and stall-holder Frank Akinsete has collaborated with Connolly to upcycle vintage pieces (Credit: Connolly). Because if you don’t, you’re going to get exposed to social backlash, and there is a risk of a boomerang effect,” Husson warned. She cites Nike’s ISPA as an example of imaginative response: “Improvise. 2020 has unarguably been one of the most challenging years in living memory, with countless experts and commentators dedicating themselves to analysing our current upheaval. The most important news … “That’s the challenge with any designer: you’re making a product and you don’t want to alienate your customer, but then you have to feel good about who’s consuming your world. [They represent] the antithesis of fast fashion and an entirely new understanding of style beyond visual representations of identity,” she adds. “That’s where I come from. Forecasters have seen an upswing in survivalist clothing; modular designs that can adapt to different climates and protect their wearer. December 18, 2020 “After decades of expansionism, we are contracting, regrouping, reconsidering and refocusing,” says Buller. “As we navigate an uncertain future, clothing will become less a tool for shaping outward identities and more an extension of our homes, offering comfort and reliability amidst global turbulence,” says Stevenson. News from the Styles, Fashion and Society desks of the New York Times. By Layla Ilchi on August 8, 2020 There is a growing awareness around conscious consumption and sustainability (Credit: Farfetch). Our priorities have shifted to demand maximum comfort. By Odessa Paloma Parker. Similar trends of thought ran through the Great Depression of the 1930s, when Americans turned their backs on flippy flapper dresses towards more reserved silhouettes. “If the show itself can take the form of a militant protest, how can you justify excluding a real activist from the event?”. Julie Hardy, partner at brand tech firm You & Mr Jones, said companies began the switch to purpose-driven messaging in the Eighties, with slogans like Nike’s “Just Do It” replacing traditional product-centric campaigns. “I would have liked to meet her, because I’m very interested in her point of view. It’s not what anyone tells me to say. How Fashion Ramped Up Activism in 2020 Fashion, luxury and beauty brands took a stance on social issues in response to global upheaval. “It’s been really beneficial for us as we’re growing.”. “If they don’t do that, they are not fulfilling their purpose.”, Bethany Williams RTW Spring 2021  Experts love trends like boxy silhouettes and low, 1990s-inspired heels. Digital campaigns such as this one, featuring a CGI version of Kendall Jenner, are on the rise (Credit: Kendall Jenner/ Burberry), But what of this new decade? Sure, classic and feminine is still cool, but for 2020, the floral print is getting a … To him, dressing Jill Biden for the Democratic National Convention was a way of supporting the campaign without antagonizing any of his clients with overt political messaging. I want to lead by example. “In response to this need for radical transparency and these new expectations, brands have been required to engage with activists.”, That has been accentuated by the dramatic events of 2020. And retail models will be reinvented with a greater focus on made-to-garment and circular design.” It’s all to play for. “For me, 2020 is a hyper year, but in 2030, I will be doing the exact same thing, because it’s been embedded in my existence since I was born in 1980. Pared-down lines characterise design in times of trouble; few cultures are going to start embracing extravagance when the chips are down – except, apparently, during the 1960s, a tumultuous decade marked by the civil-rights movement, anti-war protests, political assassinations and the emerging ‘generation gap’. Speaking two months later, Chiuri appeared to bear no grudge against the gate-crasher. We are in a capitalist world, and it’s not easy to change,” she reflected. Brunette The Label Teams Up With Chatters + More Fashion News To Know. • David Moin. At the same time, but linked in spirit, resale and second-hand markets look set to soar to a chunky $51bn (£40bn) by 2023, according to GlobalData. I think it’s true: what she wrote is not so strange,” she said, adding that the protester vanished after the show. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. Abloh also found himself in hot water for criticizing the looting of some stores following BLM protests in Los Angeles and posting a receipt for a $50 donation to Fempower, an artist collective raising funds to bail Black women out of jail. Published on January 16, 2020, … “We’ve taken on sample machinists and in-house people that are part of the Making for Change community, so it filters down into our workforce,” Williams said. Meanwhile, the need for social distancing has found an unusual ally: digitisation. Simmenauer noted that U.S. consumers are quicker to cancel a brand or designer that they feel doesn’t align with their values. And just as there is space for puffed shoulders while the bombs drop, there’s also space for humour. “Once they take a stance, it reverberates,” he said. “Already, we’re seeing garments that reflect these heightened concerns. Defiance is rife in this new world. The unseen underside of fast fashion comes at the expense of laborers. “Trend analysis of any given era will reveal society’s values and aspirations.”, -        The story of the ‘queen of flowers’. But the experience prompted him to be more explicit about the issues he supports. “It would be naive to say there is no danger, there is no risk, in taking a stance on something. Obviously, I have a very strong opinion. They want to understand how they contribute to the broader customer experience, and more importantly, they want to give meaning to their daily jobs,” Husson added. You cannot say one thing to a category of stakeholders, of shareholders, or one thing to customers and one other thing to employees. Privacy Policy and That’s why it has emerged as a strong trend.”. The latest fashion news, advice and comment from the Guardian. Ruth Ossai / Courtesy of Bethany Williams. “So it’s definitely a balancing act.”, Brands Answer Tumultuous Election Year With Merch and Initiatives, The Black Lives Matter Movement: Change Comes to Beauty, Face Masks: The New Global Must-Have Accessory, clock LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the parent company of Dior and Louis Vuitton, was among the first major luxury groups to give their creative directors the freedom to speak about issues like racism and misogyny. But speaking out is not without pitfalls, especially when it comes to politics. This, along with the understanding that we might actually have enough out there already to keep ourselves decked out for decades, has led to a resurgence of interest in making and mending; the wartime cabinets seem to have got it spot on. If you would like to comment on this story or anything else you have seen on BBC Culture, head over to our Facebook page or message us on Twitter. Terms of Use. Adapt” is a “four dimensional design logic inspired by and geared towards the built environment”. Gurung has been putting this belief into practice for years. “I’m no hypocrite. “I really take my hat off to them for being brave enough to make that decision in an era that was very different from 2020. London-based designer Bethany Williams has incorporated a social purpose into every aspect of her three-year-old brand. “Gen Z were the first to ask the question, ‘What more can a brand bring to society?’ They no longer believe in politics or religion, but they recognize that brands and companies have a role to play that previously, they were not expected to play,” she said. Can it survive the store and factory closures, the reputational damage, and an audience of economically stricken and fearful consumers? Utility clothing, as it was called, was streamlined and efficient – and sometimes gently embellished. I’ve just been more vocal and present,” he continued. The only thing that I realized within the scope of the miscommunication is that the scale that I exist on has grown considerably in a short amount of time, so just factually, there’s a lot of new people to my practice that didn’t know me two years ago,” he said. British menswear brand Connolly invited Portobello Market vintage-clothing stall owner and stylist, Frank Akinsete, to upcycle pieces from previous collections, highlighting the creativity of Akinsete and his fellow market-stall holders, in a moving photo series. It was and is still the uphill battle that I face, and I want the younger generation to have an easier path to do the same type of work that I do.”. After World War One, zip fasteners and elastic were frowned upon, except in women’s knickers. By Joelle Diderich on December 17, 2020 It shows their intention and shows how they were thinking in 2017, which is when I was having that conversation. PARIS — At the end of the Dior fashion shown in Paris last September, a woman got up from the audience and walked down the runway carrying a yellow banner painted with the words “We Are All Fashion Victims.”. “We are no longer dressing to be seen. “But what we did see was that those who already had strong commitments reinforced this positioning. The cover of The Beatles’ 1967 album Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Bandremains iconic. Find all the latest fashion news in a daily live-feed, including curated Daily Digest picks, breaking news, business analysis and designer interviews. “There’s definitely been an increased awareness around conscious consumption,” agrees Tom Berry, director of sustainability for online luxury platform Farfetch. You need to make sure that everyone is aligned,” he said. Searching for the latest fashion trends? “The challenge is to move from storytelling to story-making, and to simply do what you say, or as my American colleagues often say, to walk the talk. What Fashion Brands Can Learn From Mattel and Toys. “People will continue to be creative with clothing that prioritises protection in physical settings – and with digital garments and filters in digital spaces.” Wharry is also fascinated by digital’s possibilities: “Initiatives such as the latest Burberry campaign with Kendall Jenner [the model shot a series of 360 degree photographs of herself before they were rendered, via CGI technology and motion capture, into a digital replica of herself] indicate a greater adoption of how digital fashion could allow us to express ourselves through digital skins.”. News Corp is a network of leading companies in the worlds of diversified media, news, education, and information services; ... [2020] has made fashion change the way it sees … By Maddison Glendinning. “Unconscious consumption is falling out of fashion. June 15, 2020 at 11:00 a.m. UTC. “It’s just gotten a bit crazy for us business-wise. I want to be a figurehead in the industry,” said the designer, who was born in Rockford, Ill., of Ghanaian parents. Celebrities including Lizzo, Julianne Moore and Laura Linney wore the print. “I want to keep the flame going, and that’s where my momentum comes from.”, Gurung also thinks it’s important to speak out, at the risk of courting haters. Amy Sussman/Courtesy of BBMA2020. Fashion. L-R: Rochas, Coach, Marni, Louis Vuitton. “It really matters to the point that the value of the brand could be destroyed if you don’t pay attention to this.”. With the advent of social media, consumers have become powerful advocates for change, holding companies ever more accountable for their actions. “Fashion is an industry full of influential creatives with large platforms, and I believe it is our responsibility to use these spaces to make a positive change in the world, which includes speaking out against injustices, taking a stand, and making marginalized people feel seen and heard,” he added. “These specificities will be tied to current events, politics and emerging social values,” he added. A 1980 news article described an area of his Winnipeg office as a “passion pit” with a mirrored ceiling and a couch that transformed into a bed at the “push of a button.” “Price is still key, obviously, but the preference on these elements has increased,” Thomas Husson, vice president and principal analyst at Forrester, told a recent webinar held by data research firm Launchmetrics. “Fashion is a potent visual marker of our times,” says Caroline Stevenson, head of cultural and historical studies at London College of Fashion. One of the Imperial War Museum’s civilian siren suits boasts puffed shoulders, bell-bottom cuffs, piping decoration and a natty hood. Scavenge. I speak in a particular way from a point of view of women, because it is something that is more close with my personal story,” Chiuri said. “What we’re trying to design here is system change, not new clothes,” Raeburn told Vogue on its launch. “We can leverage everything from collections to runway shows, marketing, social media, who we dress, how we produce and so much more. “It’s increasingly about closing the gap between brand, customer and employee experiences. He noted that until recently, luxury brands generally refrained from getting involved in political and social issues. clock December 16, 2020 • Emily Mercer Christopher Raeburn, of design studio Raeburn, recently launched Raefound, an evolving, non-seasonal range of unworn military clothing and accessories. “That was probably the biggest challenge. The difficulty, she added, is how to move toward a more sustainable pace of production while preserving the thousands of jobs along the fashion supply chain. Lizzo  “Everyday garments will become more utilitarian, making space for creative digital collections that allow people to continuously reinvent their looks in ways that are less wasteful and harmful to the environment. “This year, and time spent in quarantine, offered everyone the opportunity to consider the change they want to make in the world and the legacy they wish to leave behind. Top of the agenda for many brands is health, says Abi Buller, of strategic foresight consultancy, The Future Laboratory. “Fashion is a potent visual marker of our times,” says Caroline Stevenson, head of cultural and historical studies at London College of Fashion. Skip to main content. Flamboyant fashion mogul Peter Nygard has been busted on charges of sexually assaulting dozens of teenage girls and women for decades, Manhattan federal prosecutors said on … The 2021 Colors of the year, Illuminating and Ultimate Gray, are featured boldly on an oversize hoodie designed in partnership with the Russian fashion label. From her first show, she made her values clear by sending out a T-shirt with the message “We Should All Be Feminists.” Since then she has consistently promoted female creatives, and the brand’s sales have soared. December 18, 2020 Voices. “You couldn’t tell if it was part of the show or not,” Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, commented afterward. Psychedelic Florals. The Guardian - Back to home. What Have The Rich Been Up To During the Pandemic? It’s not because it’s the mood of the day today,” he said. Diesel’s Upfreshing collection, for example, features an ‘antibacterial’ coating.”. Fashion trends, the most potent driver of speed in the industry, look set to come under some serious scrutiny. The Off-White founder has used the platform to promote a message of diversity and inclusion, starting with his first Vuitton show, staged on a rainbow-colored catwalk. “We’ve also seen significant interest in the pre-owned market, both in terms of consumers wanting to buy pre-owned products but also using services that help them sell unused items,” agrees Berry. “If you are just practicing activism in spaces that make you comfortable, you will not make the same impact, and that is a bigger concern.”. Credit Gio Staiano/Nowfashion. They Are Wearing: Snow Day Style in New York City. Yeezy Season 8: Fall 2020. Priority will go to clothes that will be fashionable longer than a couple of months,” fashion historian Allison Pfingst told Instyle Magazine, earlier this year. Sustainable fashion is still important. Date December 3, 2020 … Select best-sellers are up to 40% off. Related Gallery Harriet Hall The Proud Boys have a new uniform ... How ‘VOTE’ merch became the true winner of the US 2020 election. Interpret that as you may: monetary, ethical, sentimental. Benjamin Simmenauer, professor at the Institut Français de la Mode, said the Dior incident could be seen as a watershed moment. ... Fall 2020 Collection. In July, he revealed he had raised $1 million for a scholarship fund for Black fashion students. Ideas of exponential growth, of personal success and of gratification and identity through consumerism – much-lauded through the 1980s and 1990s – have been revealed as pipe dreams, and quite destructive ones at that. Ruth Ossai / Courtesy of Bethany Williams. How can fashion reflect the drifts and swings that the world’s population has endured over the past few months? Designers are also working on this. A survey of European consumers conducted by market research company Forrester in May found that after their experience during the COVID-19 pandemic, 51 percent of respondents said they will go out of their way in the next 12 to 24 months to buy from brands that are committed to reducing their impact on the environment. ... Canadian Designer Aurora James is Honoured at The Fashion Awards 2020. Don't miss the top fashion industry news breaking this week. The urge to creative expression runs deep. It will be interesting to see what trend analysis will make of this time. The 79-year-old Nygard awaited an appearance in a Winnipeg courtroom after his Monday, Dec. 14, 2020, arrest in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada by Canadian authorities at the request … “The fact that fashion, beauty and luxury are becoming politicized, and having to take a stance on a number of urgent social issues, will reinforce the need for brands to have a multilateral positioning, in other words, to adapt their messaging and their actions to regional specificities that are no longer just cultural,” the IFM professor said. “People seem willing to invest in higher quality items at a higher price point,” says Berry. Photo. • Booth Moore, clock I started my career from my own intuition, and I follow my own intuition. Fashion Reviews and News. Get today's Fashion News, Womens Clothing, Style, Lifestyle News, Fashion Designer Articles, Fashion Accessory, Woman Clothing & Videos at WSJ.com. Protect. “It wasn’t the first time a fashion show was disrupted by a protester, but it was the first time that people were not sure what they’d seen,” he remarked. Her clothes, which are made using recycled materials, are produced by Making for Change, a program cofounded by the London College of Fashion that helps to train female prisoners, and San Patrignano, a drug rehabilitation community in Italy. “Trend analysis of any given era will … “Digital Fashion Weeks are already emerging, welcoming larger audiences and virtual participation,” says Buller. Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of women’s collections at Dior, frequently uses her runway as a platform for feminist slogans, such as “Patriarchy = Repression.” Was this a way to question the meaning of the fashion system during the coronavirus pandemic? A still from Virgil Abloh’s first ad campaign for Louis Vuitton. Among the brands that have felt the heat this year are Boohoo, which was rocked by a scandal over sweatshop working conditions and dodgy financial practices within its British supply chain; Everlane, which was accused by former employees of union-busting, and Reformation, which faced allegations of racism that led to the departure of founder Yael Aflalo in June. In efforts to conserve precious materials for the war effort, single-breasted suits replaced double-breasted; trouser turn-ups were abolished – much to the annoyance of their male wearers. “It’s obvious that what’s trending on Twitter or Instagram has nothing to do with what’s happening on Weibo or on the Chinese version of TikTok.”, Simmenauer warned that aligning a brand’s global strategy with issues that only concern a small portion of the planet could lead to big missteps. 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